BIRDS OF PUNO Of the many reasons visitors may have for going to Puno, an area of historic, cultural and commercial wealth, bird watching is one. For bird watchers that is more than sufficient. The Andean plateau is a region without a great variety of species, but it plays an important role in Peru's impressive biological diversity. Because of its altitude over 13 000 feet above sea level and because it is the widest part of the Andes range it divides de birds of east and west of Peru, creating perhaps the most important feature in the rich bio-geographical structure of the country. And of course it offers vast landscapes that are home to a unique bird life that all birdwatchers would want to add to their lists. It can be said that lake Titicaca is at the center of the plateau, it is an important source of water, a climate regulator and tourist attraction, the mythological origin of the Incas, the highest navigable lake in the world, and a vast aquatic habitat that is home to large numbers of ducks, coots, herons and other birds, both resident and migratory. Some would say that they are merely the typical waterfowl found all over the highlands, but it must be emphasized that here they are found together, in a midst of an impressive landscape, and there is one exception: the Titicaca Grebe. This flightless diving expert, it is found nowhere else but it Titicaca basin. As a complement to the waterfowl are birds that are characteristic of the great surrounding plains of ichu grass and some chains of hills where queñuals and bushes provide refuge for them. In addition a description is given here of a brief excursion to the east into the mountain forest, in search of a lower, more humid habitat and a greater variety of birds. LAKE TITICACA Most of the birds can be seen from the roads running along the lake shore. Those, for example that you from Puno to Chucuito, Ilave, Juli or Desaguadero. There are many places where you can stop at the roadside and observe coots, ducks or migratory birds accustomed to humans. If there were not so much garbage in the habitat, the experience will be a lot better. If you are looking for the Titicaca Grebe, perhaps the best option is the village of Chucuito, 11 miles to the southeast of Puno, on the road to Desaguadero. Here inhabitants are making an effort to protect the grebe and other birds, as an intelligent way to attract more visitors to the zone. It is as easy to hire a boat as it is to see the majority of the lake's birds, such as the Chilean Flamingo, which is not only found in Paracas, or the Andean Gull, the only gull that does not live near the sea. UMAYO Umayo, 30 minutes from Puno on a surfaced road, which can be seen from the ruins of Sillustani, is another traditional attraction of the area. You can look for the Titicaca Grebe which is also found here, though in decreasing numbers, whilst aadding to your list at least 4 species of duck (among them the elegant Yellow-billed Pinatail), two more grebes and coots that are common in this parts. On the way you will also be able to add species found in the nearby hills. For example the mountain Parakeet, the Slender-billed Miner, a small bird with a curved bill like an ibis, the Correndera Pipit hiding in the grass and yellow flocks of Puna Yellow-Finches. PUCARA The grassland (or pampa) of Pucara is the traditional place to see the unsual Darwin's Nathura. If Cusco is your destination or origin, this village of potters is on the way. Continuing south for just over a mile where the ichu is higher and thicker there is a greater probability of flushing one of these Tinamous to flight. In good years these birds are common. Of course it does not live here alone. For example if the Tinamou flying off is large, you will have disturbed an Ornate Tinamou, which is widely distribute in the high Andes. Among the small birds of interest are the Cordilleran Canastero, which makes about in the ichu like a mouse, swallows catching insects on the wing, perhaps a raptor or the Andean Condor himself, supervising everything from above. LAMPA 22 miles to the north west of Juliaca is the town of Lampa where you can visit some Polylepis forests that are home to the most of the native birds of these "highest forests in the wold". In the main square make sure you get a good look at the flocks of pigeons, not the domestic type but probably Spot-winged Pigeon plateau. Carry on along the road, past the chinchilla farm and approximately 6 miles further the road passes some woods on the slope to the right. Stop and climb into the tickest part of the wood. Here you can find birds such as the endemic Rusty-fronted Canastero and the Giant conebill, which searches in the bark of the polylepis tree with its bill. FROM SANDIA TO SAN JUAN DEL ORO Most people think that Puno is inseparable from Puna, however a sizable part of the department is covered with humid forest. The diversity of this jungle and the endemism of some of its birds make it well worth while journeying from Puno to the east, towards the Amazon. From Juliaca -through Huancane and Punco- to the village of Sandia where two hotels provide basic accommodation. 5 miles from the village on the road to San Juan del Oro is an open, semi-arid habitat. This is where you should stop to observe all kinds of birds, using the excuse that you are looking for the Green capped Tanager a bird that is found nowhere else but in two places in Peru and one in Bolivia. 22 miles from Sandia past the hamlet of San Jose, is the turn-off that crosses the river towards San Juan del Oro. In the scrublands around the turn-off look for the Yungas Tody-Tyrant, a small insectivorous bird found only in two places in Peru. From the turn-off, the road to San Jose del Oro climbs up to Abra de Maruncunca (32 miles from Sandia). The wettest and most diverse habitats start to appear in the gullies that cross the road. Abra de Maruncunca, at 7200 ft. and marked by an obelisk, is our objective. One alternative for the future is the road to San Gaban, which could provide similar sightings to those on the road to San Juan del Oro. To advantage is that the road to Sab Gaban appears to be well maintained. In any case, there are plenty of routes for bird watchers.