

SACSAYHUAMAN: THE GREAT WAKA OF CUSCO Waka is a quechua word used to express astonished and reverence; colloquially, Spanish speakers use the words to describe monumental ruins or remains.Sacsayhuaman is a perfect example a complex of buildings a mile or two from modern Cusco's main square. The Spaniards called it a "fortress" because its walls reminded them of the medieval castles in their own country. Thus Juan Pizarro when he attempted to dislodge the defenders of Sacsayhuaman during the rebellion on Manco II. His jaw, broken in combat, prevented him from putting on his helmet and he was killed in the action. His brother, Francisco Pizarro de conqueror of Peru, was also an early victim of the ferocious fighting that ended the lives of so many of the Spanish leaders. We had to waist almost forty years before the viceroyalty was founded and Cusco and Sacsayhuaman were free from war, revolt, repression and vengeance. We know that the Incas worshiped Huanacaure hill as the protector of Cusco, but although it remain important over time it has been somewhat overshadowed by the multifaceted nature of Sacsayhuaman complex. It has quiet distinct area: on the summit of a hill facing the walls of the "fortress", is the so-called "Inca Throne" consisting of a series of steps leading to a stone edifice in the shape of a chair. Within the walled space is the "rodadero" or set of tunnels and inclined walls, the purpose of which is unknown. In the upper part of the complex is the "intihuatana" or place where the sun rests. It is usually interpreted as an astronomical observatory enabling imaginary lines leading from the intihuatana to neighboring high points. It is not known when Sacsayhuaman was built but it could have been in the imperial inca period. That was when the empire of Tawantinsuyo had reached the southern limits of the Andes and was extending northwards. And although the later buildings were erected on top of earlier constructions, its heyday would have been the same period in which Coricancha, the temple of the sun, was built. The stone walls of Sacsayhuaman are as carefully built as those in the streets of the same age. The Europeans recorded in their chroniclers that a knife blade could not penetrate between the stones, so perfectly were they matched. Sacsayhuaman is a unique archaeological complex, not only because of the air of mystery surrounding its tunnels which are alleged to run under the city of Cusco. But also because cusqueños use it for the Inti Raymi celebration, that formal commemoration of the Inca's past. This celebration began on 1940's and from the beginning it was based on worship of the Sun, the principal deity of Tawantinsuyo, considered by the incas to be the founder of the imperial dynasty.The location of Sacsayhuaman, its dimensions and walls are ideal for the ceremony, the central part of which is the sacrifice of the llama and a procession of dancers and musicians playing the parts of Inca nobles. It should be said that it is not just a simple theatrical performance for the benefit of domestic or international tourism. It was created with great care in the lecture theatres of the local university following a description of the manuscript left by Inca Garcilazo de la Vega. In fact it is a very serious performance of profound significance for the people of Cusco. A large part of the authenticity of the ceremony derives fro the setting in which takes place. Thus Sacsayhuaman is much more than a monument to the past, it is a meeting between the memories, identity and hopes of the people of Cusco. |