If the traveler departs from Lima towards the districts of Comas and Carabayllo through the swirling traffic on Tupac Amaru Avenue, he will soon see the city peter out to be replaced by sunny fields. He is in the Chillon valley on the Lima - Canta - La Viuda road, which crosses the La Viuda range on its way to Cerro de Pasco. The first stop should be at Checcta, 40 miles out. These are the Andean foothills, dry and surrounded by large cacti, among which can be found more than 450 petroglyphs (rock paintings) that are 1,500 years old. The paintings are primitive stylized representations of animals, humans and supernatural beings but we know nothing else about them.

A mile or so further on is Quives, the village where Saint Rose of Lima passed most of her infancy and where she was confirmed by Saint Toribio de Mogrovejo. The chapel where she used to pray has been rebuilt and there is a stone well where you can pray for a miracle yourself.

Canta and Obrajillo are, however, the most important places in the Chillon valley. The town of Canta was important during the Colonial period, both for its agricultural wealth and its deep religious fervor surviving from the ancient principalities of the Inca Empire. The Spanish policy of eradicating idolatrous beliefs made Canta a focus of special attention.

Today Canta is less impressive, principally because the 1970 earthquake destroyed all of its colonial buildings. For that reason, we recommend that travelers still visit it, but they should stay just over a mile further down at Obrajillo, whether camping or in one of the pleasant rustic hostels that have been opened nearby. The natural surroundings are splendid alongside the river Chillon among green hills and greener fields. Horse riding, barbecued trout and good walks are the order of the day, also with conversations with the old people.

From Canta you should climb to the ruins of Cantamarca (in a 4x4 or on horseback) to see the remains of an important fortress and religious center from the Canta culture (1,100 A.D.) which was also occupied by the Incas in 1450. Cantamarca is huge, containing the remains of collpas, chullpas, houses and sites of worship, some of which are beautifully preserved.

Back on the road to La Viuda, you soon come across the magnificent high altitude lakes the first of which, Chuchun, is perfectly mirror-smooth and bright turquoise. You can complete your visit with an excursion starting from a village called Huaros to a great wood of Raimondi Pines. Add another day if you are planning to do this.